14c review questions
1. how does mechanical energy move along the surface of the ocean?
2. the energy of a wave is related to what wave property?
3. what is a waves base? what is the depth of the wave base of a 160 m long deep - water wave?
4. how does a deep - water waves speed relate to its wavelength?
5. what causes most surface waves? what other kinds of things could cause a large surface wave?
6. what two kinds of currents can occur as ocean waves come ashore?
7. what do you call a mass of rock cut off from the mainland by wave erosion? what sedimentary formation may connect such a rock to the shoreline?
8. (true or false) according to the \one - seventh wave - steepness rule,\ a wave with a wavelength of 25 m and a wave height of 3 m is stable.

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Accepted Answer

### Question 1 # Brief Explanations: Mechanical energy moves along the ocean surface via surface waves. Wind transfers energy to water, creating waves where energy travels with the wave motion (water particles move in circular orbits, transferring energy forward). # Answer: Mechanical energy moves along the ocean surface via surface waves (e.g., wind - generated waves), where energy is transferred as water particles move in circular orbits, propagating the wave. ### Question 2 # Brief Explanations: The energy of a wave is related to its amplitude (or height) and also to its frequency/wavelength. For ocean waves, energy is proportional to the square of the wave height (amplitude) and also related to the wave's period/frequency. Larger amplitude (taller waves) or higher frequency means more energy. # Answer: The energy of a wave is related to its amplitude (wave height) (and also to its frequency/wavelength; for ocean waves, energy is proportional to the square of the wave height and related to wave period/frequency). ### Question 3 # Explanation: ## Step 1: Define wave base A wave's base (wave base) is the depth below the ocean surface at which the circular orbital motion of water particles caused by the wave becomes negligible (usually considered to be at a depth of half the wavelength, $\frac{\lambda}{2}$, where $\lambda$ is the wavelength). ## Step 2: Calculate wave base depth for 160 m wavelength Given $\lambda = 160\space m$, the wave base depth $d=\frac{\lambda}{2}$. Substitute $\lambda = 160\space m$ into the formula: $d=\frac{160}{2}=80\space m$. # Answer: A wave's base is the depth (≈ half the wavelength) where water particle orbital motion from the wave is negligible. The depth of the wave base for a 160 m long deep - water wave is 80 m. ### Question 4 # Brief Explanations: For deep - water waves, the wave speed ($v$) is related to its wavelength ($\lambda$) and period ($T$) by the formula $v=\frac{\lambda}{T}$. Also, using the wave equation for deep - water waves, the speed can be approximated as $v=\sqrt{g\frac{\lambda}{2\pi}}$ (where $g$ is the acceleration due to gravity), showing that wave speed increases with increasing wavelength (longer wavelength waves travel faster in deep water). # Answer: For deep - water waves, wave speed ($v$) is related to wavelength ($\lambda$) by $v = \frac{\lambda}{T}$ (or $v=\sqrt{g\frac{\lambda}{2\pi}}$), meaning wave speed increases with increasing wavelength (longer - wavelength deep - water waves travel faster). ### Question 5 # Brief Explanations: Most surface waves are caused by wind (wind transfers energy to the ocean surface, creating waves). Other things that can cause large surface waves include seismic activity (tsunamis from earthquakes), landslides (submarine or coastal), volcanic eruptions, and meteor impacts (though rare). # Answer: Most surface waves are caused by wind. Other causes of large surface waves include seismic activity (tsunamis from earthquakes), landslides (submarine/coastal), volcanic eruptions, and meteor impacts. ### Question 6 # Brief Explanations: As ocean waves come ashore, two kinds of currents that can occur are surf zone currents (including longshore currents, which flow parallel to the shore) and rip currents (which flow perpendicular to the shore, back out to sea, formed by the convergence of water from breaking waves). # Answer: The two kinds of currents that can occur as ocean waves come ashore are longshore currents (flow parallel to the shore) and rip currents (flow perpendicular to the shore, out to sea). ### Question 7 # Brief Explanations: A mass of rock cut off from the mainland by wave erosion is called a sea stack. A tombolo (a sedimentary formation) may connect such a rock (sea stack or sea island) to the shoreline, formed by the deposition of sediment (sand, gravel) by longshore currents between the rock and the shore. # Answer: A mass of rock cut off from the mainland by wave erosion is called a sea stack. A tombolo (sedimentary formation) may connect such a rock to the shoreline. ### Question 8 # Explanation: ## Step 1: Recall the one - seventh wave - steepness rule The wave - steepness rule states that a wave is stable if the ratio of wave height ($H$) to wavelength ($\lambda$) is less than or equal to $\frac{1}{7}$, i.e., $\frac{H}{\lambda}\leq\frac{1}{7}$. ## Step 2: Calculate the ratio for given wave Given $H = 3\space m$ and $\lambda=25\space m$, calculate $\frac{H}{\lambda}=\frac{3}{25}=0.12$. Now, $\frac{1}{7}\approx0.1429$. Since $0.12<0.1429$, the wave is stable? Wait, no, wait: Wait, the rule is that if $\frac{H}{\lambda}>\frac{1}{7}$, the wave is unstable. Wait, let's recalculate: $\frac{3}{25}=0.12$, $\frac{1}{7}\approx0.1429$. Since $0.12 < 0.1429$, according to the "one - seventh wave - steepness rule", the wave is stable? Wait, no, maybe I got the rule reversed. Wait, the wave - steepness criterion for wave breaking (instability) is when $\frac{H}{\lambda}>\frac{1}{7}$. So if $\frac{H}{\lambda}\leq\frac{1}{7}$, the wave is stable. So for $H = 3\space m$, $\lambda = 25\space m$, $\frac{H}{\lambda}=\frac{3}{25}=0.12$, and $\frac{1}{7}\approx0.1429$. Since $0.12<0.1429$, the wave is stable. So the statement is True? Wait, no, wait: Wait, $3\div25 = 0.12$, and $1\div7\approx0.1429$. So $0.12<0.1429$, so the wave is stable. So the answer is True? Wait, no, maybe I made a mistake. Wait, the "one - seventh rule" is that a wave will break when the wave height is greater than one - seventh of the wavelength. So if $H>\frac{\lambda}{7}$, it breaks (unstable). Here, $\frac{\lambda}{7}=\frac{25}{7}\approx3.57\space m$. The wave height is 3 m, which is less than 3.57 m. So the wave is stable. So the statement "a wave with a wavelength of 25 m and a wave height of 3 m is stable" is True. # Answer: True. Using the one - seventh wave - steepness rule, $\frac{H}{\lambda}=\frac{3}{25}=0.12$ and $\frac{1}{7}\approx0.1429$. Since $0.12<0.1429$ (or $H = 3\space m<\frac{\lambda}{7}\approx3.57\space m$), the wave is stable.

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Explanation:

Question 1

Step 1: Define wave base

Step 2: Calculate wave base depth for 160 m wavelength

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Question 2