Question

fill in the blank question
breakers form when incoming waves reach
water and the speed of the bottom portion of the wave
. incoming
waves become higher and steeper. they eventually become
, and they collapse forward as a breaker.
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Explanation:

To solve this fill - in - the - blank about wave breakers, we refer to the principles of oceanography (a subfield of Natural Science, specifically related to the study of ocean waves).

1. For the first blank: When waves approach the shore, they reach shallow water. In shallow water, the bottom of the wave interacts with the seabed, which slows down the bottom portion of the wave.
2. For the second blank: As the bottom part of the wave slows down and the top part keeps moving at a relatively faster speed (due to less resistance in the upper water column), the waves become higher and steeper. Eventually, they become unstable. This instability leads to the wave collapsing forward as a breaker.
3. For the third blank: The key process here is that the speed of the bottom portion of the wave slows down when it reaches shallow water. This difference in speed between the bottom and the top of the wave causes the wave to steepen and eventually break.

Answer:

First blank: shallow
Second blank: unstable
Third blank: slows down